Noelle making dog biscuits with Mo's "help."

Unfortunately there aren’t a ton of ways a girl in elementary school can volunteer with dogs on the level Noelle wants.  So when she asked her parents to contact us two years ago after seeing one of our marked cars in a parking lot,  we had to find a way to incorporate her into our team.  Since then she has helped us do everything from bake dog biscuits to manage our booth at various events.  She even participated in the Pit Crew’s training class, helping the dogs practice for their challenging roles as therapy dogs.  Still, this isn’t quite enough for her, as all Noelle wants to do is spend time with dogs.

Thankfully, allowing fantastic kids like Noelle volunteer and learn about animals just got easier in Austin.   With the help and support of her parents, Noelle is able to be part of Austin Pets Alive’s new Big Brother/Sister Program.  A lucky (and quite adorable) dog named Bunny got Noelle as her “Big” recently.   Noelle is familiarized with Bunny’s schedule and needs, wrote Bunny’s bio to help her get adopted, and gets to do fun stuff with her like play and teach her obedience cues.

Noelle Jack

While most ten year old girls are playing video games and making lists of all the toys, clothes and shoes they want, Noelle is focused on something entirely different.   She reads countless books on anything dog-related  and volunteers as much time as she can to opportunities that will allow her to help dogs and the people who love them.

Noelle’s love for animals, sense of humor, perseverance, and utterly amazing tendency for giving to others before she takes for herself, have made her a true inspiration in our lives.  We are proud to say she is part of our team and thankful for programs like APA’s Big Brothers/Sisters for giving her the opportunity to learn and grow as a truly good and wonderful person.  We hope to be more like Noelle when we grow up.

By: Crystal Dunn, Lead Trainer and Founder Leaps N’ Hounds LLC.

Socializing your puppy is probably one of the most important things you can do for them.  It helps stabilize their temperament at an early age, teaches strong social skills that they will use throughout life, improves manners, and prevents neurotic and over reactive behaviors from developing over time.   It’s also fun.  Who doesn’t love seeing their young pup tumble with other puppies, greet new people, or snuggle up to a big friendly dog?  But there are a few things everyone should consider as they take their impressionable pup into new environments.  In this first article of the series I’ll talk about places to and not to socialize your puppy.

What not to do:  The Dog Park
The biggest mistake many new puppy owners make is going straight to the dog park.  Before I go on, let me stress that I am not ANTI-dog park.  I am just anti-puppy at the dog park – and for good reason.

It seems like the obvious choice, but dog parks are actually very dangerous places to socialize an impressionable puppy.  Many dogs find the environment overwhelming, sending the pup into panic and/or ultra submissive or aggressive states of mind.  At this delicate stage in your puppy’s life it is crucial to make sure all of their dog-to-dog experiences are good and constructive.  Panic does not do anything good or constructive for your puppy.

Consider the potential crowd at the park.  Do you know any of these dogs?  Just about anyone who has ever been to a dog park has seen some behavior that is scary between dogs.  It’s like throwing your pup to the wolves and telling them:  ”Figure it out, buddy!”  There’s no support, control, or trust being developed there.  All you can do is hope for the best.   Some dogs play way too rough or show rude dog behaviors, and your puppy does not have the maturity to deal with those behaviors properly yet.  Liken it to taking a 5 year old to an R rated film.  You don’t want your child to repeat bad words or violence any more than you want your puppy to learn to play too rough.

Dog parks are also breeding grounds for all types of parasites.  Even a vaccinated dog stands a promising chance of picking up a nasty case of Giardia or other parasite.  Dog parks are a very bad idea for dogs who aren’t completely vaccinated.  I guarantee you a puppy will pick up Parvo from a dog park faster than just about any other environment – and few puppies survive this terrible infection even if they’ve had one or two rounds of vaccinations already

And what about all that training you’ve been working on? Letting your pup roam freely in a space where they can ignore your very existence will not strengthen their relationship to you.  The dog park environment definitely reinforces more than just a few bad habits – namely the ability to completely ignore that oh so important “come” command.  Spare yourself some trouble and don’t put your puppy in an environment where they are guaranteed to ignore you and succeed at it.

If you must socialize your dog at the dog park, here are a few tips to make it a little safer and more constructive:
1.) Go when it is slow.  5 dogs or less is ideal.
2.) Choose a park that has trees and other visual barriers.  Stay away from big boring spaces where there’s nothing to do but obsess about the other dogs.
3.) Take your own water.  Community dog water=vet visits.
4.) Scoop the poop.  If you see a pile (yours or another dog’s) pick it up.  That Giardia parasite I mentioned?  Yeah, it’s found in poop and we all know how much dogs love to stick their nose in it.
5.) Familiarize yourself with dog body language.  If you can recognize rude dog behavior, you can defend your dog if needed and help others encourage friendly play at the park!

What to do: Visit Dog Friendly Places on Leash

Hop in! Mo will drive.

Austin is full of dog friendly establishments.  Home improvement stores, craft stores, pet suppliers, vets, groomers, restaurants, pubs, and leash parks – to name a few.  All of these places have a wonderful variety of people, objects, sounds, and even dogs!  Taking your dog to a variety of places will expose them to all kinds of fun new things- all while your dog is safely on leash by your side.  The leash may seem like a hassle at this stage (you’re probably still teaching good leash manners), but it is essential in teaching your dog to depend on you for guidance and protection.  Bring high value treats with you to make everything in these places a good experience while practicing sits, stays, and good manners.  Treats will make your experience with them much easier too!  Adding in a few trips to the vet or groomer without subjecting your dog to needles or clippers will also help create positive associations with these essential places for your dog.

One important note to add here (and we’ll elaborate more on this in a future article on this topic) is to protect your dog.  If at any time your dog is uncomfortable or frightened, give them space to move away from the scary stimulus.  If it is potentially dangerous (a dog you don’t know or an unfriendly person, for example), then get your dog out of there.  If it isn’t dangerous and you feel your puppy is overreacting, allow them space to move away, but give them time to evaluate the situation.  Add treats or other rewards to the situation if you think it may help change their mind (give a “scary” stranger treats to share, for example).  Never coddle them or force them, just let them observe and sniff.  Sometimes puppies just have to learn things for themselves.  There is nothing wrong with being a little cautious around new things.

For questions or to set up a training consultation, please contact us.

Baby Jack at 6 months old looking for goodies on the counter.

No curious puppy can withstand the temptation of a lovely loaf of bread on the counter; especially when that puppy is big enough to reach it. Yet lack of height hasn’t stopped many tenacious little dogs from aiming high too. Once they realize the goodies are on the counter, your average dog may turn into a genius athlete capable of climbing cabinets, leaping incredible distances, and even pushing furniture closer to the counter.   Suddenly it’s all but turned into a black ops mission – all in the name of getting an ample piece of that forbidden chocolate cake.

How do we end this bad and dangerous habit?

1. Avoid it all together. Leaving food out on the counter only sets your dog up to fail, which is a grade A no-no in dog training. It’s dangerous and simply taunts the keen nose of a dog. Put the bread, butter, oils, and other foods away so your dog isn’t rewarded for their counter curiosity.
2. Teach your dog the “Leave it” cue. Every puppy should understand the concept of: that’s not for you. “Leave it” has a very positive effect on a dog’s respect-o-meter, and a million different uses.  We venture to say it may be one of the most useful obedience commands ever.
3. Teach the “Off” cue. “Down” means lay down, “Off” means: keep your four on the floor, puppy face!
4. Teach basic obedience. When put to practical use, obedience translates to communication, respect, happy bonds and healthy boundaries.
5. Catch them in the act. Correction is effective only when you catch your dog before they have eaten the whole stick of butter.   Correct them verbally and sternly when you catch your dog counter surfing, but do not yell or run after your dog.  Dog’s like games and nothing says fun like a good romp around the kitchen island while you chase excitedly behind.
6. Redirect. If your dog shouldn’t be surfing the counters, what should they be doing?   So if you don’t want them surfing the counters, make sure you show them what you DO want them to do.  How about a fun, interactive toy or chew?   If following a stern correction with a redirection, be sure to offer the redirect in a gentle, positive and friendly tone, as if to say: I was unhappy with your counter surfing, but you playing with this toy will make me happy.
7. Feed from the dog bowl, not the counter. We fully support adding dog-healthy veggies and other foods to your dog’s diet, but feeding from the counter only says to a dog: “Hey! Lookie where the food comes from!”  Put nutritious foods in their bowl to avoid creating a beggar and counter surfer.
8. Supervise & be patient. Young dogs are scavengers by nature and our human rules make no sense to them. Keep a close eye on your young dog at all times and spend the energy to be consistent about redirecting them when they are headed for trouble. They’ll thank you for it later by giving you many wonderful years of good behavior.

There are other techniques, such as booby trapping, that are commonly used to deter even the worst counter surfers from scavenging food prep areas.  Some of these techniques work for some dogs, but they may also have unwanted side effects like irrational fears.  We highly recommend contacting a professional Dog Trainer to assess your dog’s temperament and habits before trying these techniques.  Plus, chances are good that if a dog is counter surfing, there are other manners they could work on too.   You may be pleasantly surprised at how much better life with your dog is with a professional’s guidance.

The City of Austin in partnership with Emancipet will provide a free rabies shot, collar and tag, microchip and spay/neuter for dogs/cats in these zip codes:

• 78701
• 78702
• 78721
• 78723
• 78724
• 78741
• 78744
• 78745
• 78753
• 78758

These free animal services have a value of more than $150. (at least!)

The Spay Street Program will help the City address the issue of the homeless pet population in the community thus reducing the risk of animals being euthanized.

Instructions for Spay Street Program free services:

No appointment needed, simply take your animals to Emancipet:

7201 Levander Loop, Austin 78702 Monday- Saturday, except second Wednesday of every month. Please bring proof of residency (ie: drivers license w/current address or a bill or official piece of mail with your name and address on it).

Call (512) 587-7729 for additional information.

• Drop off is between 8 and 9 a.m.
• Pick up is between 4 and 5p.m.
• All dogs are to be leashed and all cats must be in carriers
• Kittens & Puppies must be 8 weeks of age or older

Benefits of spaying/ neutering your pet:

1. SAVES YOU MONEY! Financially caring for 1 pet vs. all of their offspring. (not to mention reduced risk of ovarian and testicular cancer in dogs and cats!)
2. No more stray males hanging around your property to breed with your female.
3. Siblings won’t breed with each other and/ or their parents.
4. No need to find homes for unwanted litters.
5. Reduces aggression in male dogs and reduces tendency to roam.
6. Microchip cuts down on theft of dogs and helps with recovering lost animals.
7. Males are less likely to mark and/ or spray inside your home.
8. No more mess to clean from females in heat.
9. Females will not try to escape to go breed outside your home or property.

For more information or if you live outside of the qualifying zip codes and need assistance, please call the Spay Street Public Health Educator: 512-972-5832 or visit www.EMANCIPET.org for specials like this one:

If you are considering breeding your dog, please visit here first: http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/pet_overpopulation/

Please spay/neuter your pets!

Sincerely,

Your Pet Sitters and Dog Trainers at Leaps N’ Hounds

…and reap the benefits of the good behavior that follows!

This is an edited re-post of an older article taken from the LnH Newsletter – March 2009

We all know that belly rubs are great and that one spot you scratch, you know the one that summons the ticklish back leg kick? Yeah, that’s the spot! But the luckiest dogs will tell you that, aside from the great belly scratches they receive on a regular basis, their lives also include lots and lots of games that keep their minds sharp and their bodies busy!

Jack will do anything for that ball - even if it means the hard work of sitting still for a photo.

Games help build confidence, spend excess energy, teach self control, increase focus, and create a sense of stability and comfort in the home. Games can also decrease destructive urges by giving a more constructive outlet for releasing pent-up energy.  This is called harnessing drive – or channeling a dog’s natural urges to chase, catch, and retrieve into more constructive things than say: killing the squirrels or chasing the neighbor’s car.  Games can give your dog a sense of purpose, a challenge, and a job to do. All of these factors contribute to your dog’s overall well being and, best of all, build a stronger bond of trust and respect with you!

There are good ways and bad ways to play with your dog. If your dog loves to steal your underpants and run away while you chase them around the house, you’ve experienced some of the undesirable side effects of the chase game first hand. If they are failing to see the difference between your hands and chew toys, you may be inadvertently encouraging mouthing by wresting and playing too rough with your pooch. Playing with your pup should build good behavior, not bad habits.

A good game for a dog should engage their mind first. There should be clear rules outlined for them during this game using training cues that they have been taught in advance. For example, Fetch can be played using cues like Sit, Stay, Fetch, Come, and Drop it. If you find a game that you think your dog will love, make sure you prepare them ahead of time by teaching them any new cues that they may need to understand the game first. Then teach the game one step at a time. Every dog is different, and may respond to one game more than another. If your dog isn’t having fun with a game, don’t be afraid to make it easier or try something new.

Here are a few great games to try:

Hide n’ Seek (Intro to Coming When Called and Distance Stays)

Place your dog in a Sit or Down/ Stay. Walk a few feet away and call them to you in a very excited and fun tone. Reward when they come to you. Repeat the process, each time increasing your distance from the dog until you can go out of sight. Keep it simple at first, then slowly increase the difficulty level in finding you. Hide behind doors, in closets, and even outside (in a fenced area) to create a real challenge!  If your dog’s stay isn’t quite strong enough to play this game by himself, have someone hold them by leash and show your dog the reward you’ll have waiting for them when they come find you.  When you call, your helper drops the leash and your dogs scampers to find you.

Treasure Hunt (Intro to Impulse Control and Focus)

Put your dog in a down or sit stay and place a treat, toy, or something of moderate interest within sight. Wait a moment before releasing her to get the toy, encouraging her to go to the reward and eat it or play with it however she wants. Use a cue for this coupled with your release word.  If you say “OK” to release, then say something like “OK – Get it!”  in an excited tone.  If you act like you really love the game, your dog will pick up on your tone and be equally excited.  So if your dog isn’t extremely interested in the game to start, increase your energy and excitement to show them how fun it is.  Repeat this, varying where you place the reward and slowly increasing the value of the reward.  Start “hiding” the reward where the dog can’t see it, but where she can watch you place it and easily find it and retrieve it if she wants (behind a piece of furniture, for example). Release her to get the reward and guide her if she becomes confused. Next, hide the treat further away, then in another room, gradually increasing difficulty.  You can increase the distance and difficulty in finding the treasure as your dog gets better at the game. This is especially good for dogs that have begun to learn “stay” but are nervous about having their people go out of sight.  It is also a fantastic focus game to lengthen a puppy’s typically short attention span.

Clean Up

Get a box or bucket and collect a number of toys and other dog-safe items that you would like to teach your dog to recognize and clean up.   Scatter the toys in a small pile on the floor. Through shaping, get the dog to pick up the items one at a time and place them in your hand while giving the cue: “Clean Up.”  It helps if your dog already understands the concept of “Take it” and “Drop it” allowing you to start with these already familiar cues and work in the new “Clean Up” cue slowly.   Be sure to reward each “gift” with praise or treats (I’ve found exchanging one toy for another to be the easiest way to train this as treats distract most dogs from the game to start.)  While maintaining the fun of this “return for refund” game, move further and further from your dog adding distance to their retrieve.  Then introduce the toy bin and place each toy retrieved in the bin.  Lastly hold your hands over the bin and as soon as your dog drops the toy, move your hands allowing it to fall directly into the bin.  Praise heavily for this and get noticeably excited.  Repeat until your dog will place the toy directly into the bin without your hands present, then slowly move away from the bin each round adding more and more distance.  Your dog will likely lose interest in the early stages of teaching this game at first and that is fine.  Simply end the game on a high note and try again later.  This one can take a while to master and requires a lot of practice.

Tug (Confidence and Impulse Control During Heightened Excitement – Introducing the On/Off Switch)

The secret to playing this game successfully is for you, the human, to control it. For this game, choose one particular toy that will be used as your tug toy. Don’t use a bone, a leash, or anything that smells too much like you (like a sock) unless you are ok with all of your socks and undergarments becoming toys.  A good tug toy is long enough to avoid contact between a dog’s mouth and your hands, is sturdy, and is of interest to your dog.  This toy is special and unique for your dog, so it will be kept in a safe spot away from your pet until it is time to play.

You start the game by taking the toy out of it’s safe spot and encouraging your dog to mouth it with a cue like “Tug” or “Get it.” Some dogs will refuse to do this with you, especially if they’ve been punished for tugging in the past. If your dog is food motivated, try rubbing the toy with something tasty and smelly at first like a little peanut butter. However, tugging is instinctive for dogs (it’s a cooperative act in pack feeding) so your dog should catch on quickly. Tug a few times, then tell your dog “drop it” or “release.” Use a cheerful but clear tone. You can reward him for dropping it with either a treat, a different toy that he gets to play with for a minute, or another round of tug. Occasionally let your dog win by releasing the toy from your grip while saying “OK.” If your dog is the shy or timid type they should be allowed to win more often.   A more confident dog that who struggles with authority needs to win less often than you.

Remember Four on the Floor at all times – no jumping, leaping, or scratching allowed.  Angle your toy low to the ground so you don’t inadvertently encourage jumping behavior.  Any time your dog leaps or jumps, release your grip and turn your back stiffly to let your dog know you absolutely do not like and will not play with this behavior.   Make sure that you end the game if your dog gets too rough or agitated. Simply ask for a “drop it”, praise for it, and always put the toy away when you are done playing.

It takes two to tug!  If the dog refuses to let go, you let go of your end and walk away.  Wait until the energy has diminished a little and distract your dog with another toy so you can put the tug toy away.  The game always plays by your rules and begins and ends when you say it does.  It won’t take long for your dog to learn this and master the ability to turn off their excitement just as quickly as they can turn it on.

Fetch with Obedience (Impulse Control – Channeling Chase Instincts)

If your dog already retrieves the ball (or at least runs after it), have them sit and stay while you throw the ball. Attach a leash at first to make sure they stay when you ask them to. Then release them to “Fetch!” Reward the return of the ball with a chest scratch or a treat if needed. Build on the length of time that you ask them to stay slowly. This is an extremely good impulse control exercise for those dogs who just can’t wait to go get that ball!  For dogs who struggle with chasing things that they shouldn’t, work on this game to teach a similar attachment to the toy instead.  This can be used later in training to remove attention and focus from chasing bad things like cars, channeling that instinct into the ball (or fetch toy) instead.  For pro fetchers with great focus, increase difficulty by adding down and tricks before releasing to “Fetch!”

Other fun games to check out

Catch (with frisbee, ball, toys)

Racing (running to touch a target – dog must know “touch” on command)

Play & Freeze (incorporates games like Tug & Racing to build excitement, then challenges the dog to stop or “freeze” suddenly before play begins again)

Agility: formal or basic with hoop jumping, hurdles, and other props. You can even make your own props! (High impact and large jumps should only be done by dogs 12+ months of age.)

Tricks: If your dog loves to perform and has a knack for picking up the details, the possibilities are endless!*If you have more than one dog, it is equally important to spend quality time alone with each dog. Don’t hesitate to separate your dogs and play with one at a time, especially when playing a game or teaching them something new. Each of your lucky dogs will thank you for it.

For more in-depth rules and directions on teaching these games, check out books like 50 Games to Play with Your Dog and 101 Dog Tricks.

It’s Spring and our dogs are all itching to go on some new adventures. Festivals, parks, and patios, here we come. But wait! After such a chilling Winter we’ve noticed our manners are a tad rusty; so we thought we’d share our tips on keeping an excited pooch on their best behavior while getting the most out of the fun times ahead.

1. Be prepared.
Bring waste bags, treats, and all of the training tools that you may need to have a pleasant outing with your dog. Don’t forget the water and a snack if you’re going to be out long.

2. Leave on the right note.
Your dog only needs some basic obedience and your solid guidance and confidence to behave in public. Start your adventures off with a polite exit from your house.  “Sit” and “Wait” (or “Stay” if you do not use “Wait”) at the door.  You exit, then invite them to come with you (we like “Let’s Go”). If your dog gets overly excited about going places, practice a little obedience in the front yard before leaving to gain focus.  If riding in the car, have your dog sit and “wait” or “stay” before releasing them to enter and exit the vehicle.

Lyla and Crystal Enjoy the View

3. “Stop” at all curbs and street crossings.
Dogs must learn to look both ways too!

4. Be aware.

Walk confidently, look ahead, and provide guidance for your dog on how they should behave towards upcoming distractions by using cues like “Leave it.” Communicate clearly with cues you have already taught your dog. Remember: they usually see it and smell it before you do, so stay sharp when it comes to upcoming obstacles and use your cues well before the excitement gets the best of them.

5. Don’t forget to smell the flowers.
Release them with “Go Ahead” to smell in the grass, potty, or just check something out.  When you are ready to go, call them back to walk nicely and continue your walk.

6. Step aside.
“Sit” and “Stay” for strangers, bicycles and other obstacles to pass.

7. “Sit” for greetings.
Easier said than done, right? If your dog is excited to meet people, you will need to teach them how to approach a person first. Allowing your dog to pull you towards new

things only teaches them that pulling works and encourages excitability and jumping. So stop as soon as pulling occurs and turn and walk the opposite direction. This introduces a new result – one that tells your dog that pulling gets them further away from their goal. The behavior will stop all together when your dog realizes it doesn’t work, so naturally they will want to try a different approach, and so you simply tell them what you want. It’s simple: As long as the leash is loose, they get closer to their goal. If you already use a walk nicely cue (“Let’s Go,” “With Me,” or “Heel”), then give your dog the cue to let them know what you want. Be patient and practice this one many times so your dog has an opportunity to connect the dots: pulling = go nowhere. Walking nice = meeting new people. And repeat.

Once you are able to approach nicely, then you get to the hardest part about greetings: managing the stranger petting your dog. If they reinforce rude behavior, then all

your hard work training can be lost. Thankfully most people will ask to pet your dog first. Use the phrase “Only if he/she sits” in response and automatically involve them

in the training process. Most people will ask your dog to sit right away, hence joining you in your efforts to teach good manners. If the dog jumps during any part of the greeting, simply end the greeting. It won’t be long before your dog automatically sits for everyone – a result well worth a few awkward social moments with strangers. Sit = happy pets from new exciting people. Jump = bye.

8. Respect your dog’s decisions.
If your dog is too excited to say hello, spooked by someone, or does not react well in any way, do not be afraid to tell the stranger that they cannot pet your dog. “Please do not pet my dog – He/She is in training” works well to politely turn people away. You may encourage your dog, but never force your dog to approach anything they are frightened of. Likewise, if your dog seems uncomfortable and wants to get away from someone during petting. It is VERY important to let them walk away. There is nothing wrong with a dog who simply doesn’t feel like being pet. Your dog will appreciate and trust you more if you support their decisions. They’ll also be a lot less likely to bite when they feel afraid because they know you are there to look out for them!

9. Walk away when in doubt.
If you have lost control of the situation, or sense that you cannot maintain control of your dog, turn around, walk away, and regain your control.  Have your dog sit or down and stay to calm them.

10. Practice!
Exposure will teach your dog that: Although the world around them changes, the rules do not.  Take them out around new people and places at least 20 minutes a week. During early training we recommend at least twice a week to keep it fresh in their minds. Old dogs can forget, but they can also learn new things. Young or old, never stop socializing and teaching your dog new things.

11. Rest.
A tired dog can be a good dog, but an exciting field trip can leave your dog exhausted. Like children, dogs get cranky when they are tired and may become defiant and throw tantrums. Give your dog adequate breaks on your outings and listen to them when they tell you they have had enough.

Happy Adventuring!

The Leaps N’ Hounds Team