It’s a common misconception that allowing dogs on the furniture will “ruin” their temperament.   There is no magic respect switch that is flipped in a dog’s brain when they are not allowed on the furniture, and we’ve seen thousands of dogs maintain perfectly sweet and polite dispositions while enjoying the couch and bed with their people.  No use depriving them just because that episode of the Dog Whisperer said so. Instead, think of it as a personal decision.

Mo is no dummy: The couch is the most comfortable seat in the house...especially when his favorite neck pillow is available.

Some people don’t mind furring up the couch for a little extra snuggle time with their pets, while others prefer dogs stay off of their nice furniture and remain on the floor.  There is no right or wrong to this.  If approached properly, most dogs will see furniture as nothing more than what it is:  a comfortable place to cuddle with their family or a zone in the house that is simply off limits to them.

If you wish to share the couch or bed with your dog, that’s ok!  Just keep in mind that, like all other rewards, couches and beds are a privilege best controlled by the humans in the house.  Here are some simple tips and guidelines on how to do just that:

Puppies & New Dogs:

Keep puppies off of the furniture until they are about 1 year old and no longer chewing destructively or having accidents in the house.  Your couch will thank you for it later.

For mature dogs that are new to a house, we recommend 3 to 6 months without furniture access.  If other behavioral issues are being worked on, it may be best to wait a full year before allowing this privilege, or until those issues have been worked through with success.   The goal is to raise a dog that knows that furniture access can be taken away without causing any emotional distress to the dog or undoing any valuable training.

If you want to share your bed with your dog, first teach them to sleep separately on a dog bed or in a kennel for at least 6 months (possibly a full year or more  – especially for destructive and hyper puppies).  This teaches healthy independence as your dog learns that they can sleep alone – an essential lesson for young puppies as they build confidence.   It also helps maintain your freedom to sleep without your dog when you want, and prevents unhealthy dependencies that may contribute to separation anxiety.  Dogs who are allowed to sleep in bed from the time they arrive home often experience strong emotional distress when their human families travel and must be away from them for any period of time.

The On and Off of Things:

All dogs allowed on furniture should be taught an “off” cue so they can be asked to move politely when needed.  This is simple to teach and makes it easy for your dog to understand that just because they are allowed up on things, doesn’t mean they own them.

To earn access to the couch or bed, ask for a simple sit first.  After a nice sit, invite your dog up as the treat !  After a brief snuggle on the couch, then you have the perfect opportunity to practice off.  Get a treat and hold it to your dog’s nose.  Say “off” and guide them off the couch.  When four land on the floor, give them the treat and praise with “good dog!”

The Benefits:

There are benefits to allowing your pets on the furniture.  Not only do you get bonus snuggle time with your dog, but you are more likely to catch any health issues early on.  For example: a client of ours recently found a small lump on her dog’s belly that she swears she would have missed if it weren’t for her nightly couch snuggle time with her dog.  And things like smelly ears and halitosis are classic signs of infection or digestive issues that may be missed if you aren’t accustomed to being so up close and personal with your dog.

Furthermore, this is one more place you get to practice polite habits and boundaries.  A dog who is never allowed on the couch may not understand the “off” cue as clearly – something that comes in handy in a number of other situations other than furniture manners. We view it as a great sign of respect when our dogs happily remove themselves from a warm, soft seat so that we can enjoy the spot.

When furniture is not OK:

A small percentage of high status-seeking personalities may identify having furniture access as a status symbol, and may become territorial of the furniture as a result.  In severe cases the dogs will behave this way toward humans in the house.   It is more commonly seen in multi-dog homes where the pack structure is unstable and the dogs are competing with each other.   One dog will guard an area from another, which can cause some serious conflict.  This is usually not limited to just furniture though.  We’ve seen dogs guard entire sections of a house from other dogs in the family – and sometimes other human family members as well.  The couch or the bed are just one more zone that a dog on a power trip can guard, but limiting access to these spots alone is not a magic fix as it is not the root of the problem.  This behavior is a sign of imbalance, and that more boundaries, training, guidance, and exercise are needed with the dogs.  In the worst cases we’ve seen, the dogs typically have no daily structure, no feeding routine, no prior training, and therefore no real respect.  It’s typically doggie chaos that causes these problems, not the magic height of the couch.    In other words, if you see signs of furniture guarding (or any guarding) in your home, chances are the humans need to step it up on their dog duties before someone gets hurt.

Any dog who displays this type of behavior should have their furniture privileges revoked immediately to remove at least one catalyst for doggie disagreements.   This is a sure sign that further behavioral troubles are on the horizon with your dog (if they aren’t already rearing their ugly head), so contact a professional to further explore the reasons as to why your dog feels they can control things like furniture access in your home.   It’s not hard to address these problems, and the sooner you work to fix them, the easier they are to fix.

Baby Jack at 6 months old looking for goodies on the counter.

No curious puppy can withstand the temptation of a lovely loaf of bread on the counter; especially when that puppy is big enough to reach it. Yet lack of height hasn’t stopped many tenacious little dogs from aiming high too. Once they realize the goodies are on the counter, your average dog may turn into a genius athlete capable of climbing cabinets, leaping incredible distances, and even pushing furniture closer to the counter.   Suddenly it’s all but turned into a black ops mission – all in the name of getting an ample piece of that forbidden chocolate cake.

How do we end this bad and dangerous habit?

1. Avoid it all together. Leaving food out on the counter only sets your dog up to fail, which is a grade A no-no in dog training. It’s dangerous and simply taunts the keen nose of a dog. Put the bread, butter, oils, and other foods away so your dog isn’t rewarded for their counter curiosity.
2. Teach your dog the “Leave it” cue. Every puppy should understand the concept of: that’s not for you. “Leave it” has a very positive effect on a dog’s respect-o-meter, and a million different uses.  We venture to say it may be one of the most useful obedience commands ever.
3. Teach the “Off” cue. “Down” means lay down, “Off” means: keep your four on the floor, puppy face!
4. Teach basic obedience. When put to practical use, obedience translates to communication, respect, happy bonds and healthy boundaries.
5. Catch them in the act. Correction is effective only when you catch your dog before they have eaten the whole stick of butter.   Correct them verbally and sternly when you catch your dog counter surfing, but do not yell or run after your dog.  Dog’s like games and nothing says fun like a good romp around the kitchen island while you chase excitedly behind.
6. Redirect. If your dog shouldn’t be surfing the counters, what should they be doing?   So if you don’t want them surfing the counters, make sure you show them what you DO want them to do.  How about a fun, interactive toy or chew?   If following a stern correction with a redirection, be sure to offer the redirect in a gentle, positive and friendly tone, as if to say: I was unhappy with your counter surfing, but you playing with this toy will make me happy.
7. Feed from the dog bowl, not the counter. We fully support adding dog-healthy veggies and other foods to your dog’s diet, but feeding from the counter only says to a dog: “Hey! Lookie where the food comes from!”  Put nutritious foods in their bowl to avoid creating a beggar and counter surfer.
8. Supervise & be patient. Young dogs are scavengers by nature and our human rules make no sense to them. Keep a close eye on your young dog at all times and spend the energy to be consistent about redirecting them when they are headed for trouble. They’ll thank you for it later by giving you many wonderful years of good behavior.

There are other techniques, such as booby trapping, that are commonly used to deter even the worst counter surfers from scavenging food prep areas.  Some of these techniques work for some dogs, but they may also have unwanted side effects like irrational fears.  We highly recommend contacting a professional Dog Trainer to assess your dog’s temperament and habits before trying these techniques.  Plus, chances are good that if a dog is counter surfing, there are other manners they could work on too.   You may be pleasantly surprised at how much better life with your dog is with a professional’s guidance.

…and reap the benefits of the good behavior that follows!

This is an edited re-post of an older article taken from the LnH Newsletter – March 2009

We all know that belly rubs are great and that one spot you scratch, you know the one that summons the ticklish back leg kick? Yeah, that’s the spot! But the luckiest dogs will tell you that, aside from the great belly scratches they receive on a regular basis, their lives also include lots and lots of games that keep their minds sharp and their bodies busy!

Jack will do anything for that ball - even if it means the hard work of sitting still for a photo.

Games help build confidence, spend excess energy, teach self control, increase focus, and create a sense of stability and comfort in the home. Games can also decrease destructive urges by giving a more constructive outlet for releasing pent-up energy.  This is called harnessing drive – or channeling a dog’s natural urges to chase, catch, and retrieve into more constructive things than say: killing the squirrels or chasing the neighbor’s car.  Games can give your dog a sense of purpose, a challenge, and a job to do. All of these factors contribute to your dog’s overall well being and, best of all, build a stronger bond of trust and respect with you!

There are good ways and bad ways to play with your dog. If your dog loves to steal your underpants and run away while you chase them around the house, you’ve experienced some of the undesirable side effects of the chase game first hand. If they are failing to see the difference between your hands and chew toys, you may be inadvertently encouraging mouthing by wresting and playing too rough with your pooch. Playing with your pup should build good behavior, not bad habits.

A good game for a dog should engage their mind first. There should be clear rules outlined for them during this game using training cues that they have been taught in advance. For example, Fetch can be played using cues like Sit, Stay, Fetch, Come, and Drop it. If you find a game that you think your dog will love, make sure you prepare them ahead of time by teaching them any new cues that they may need to understand the game first. Then teach the game one step at a time. Every dog is different, and may respond to one game more than another. If your dog isn’t having fun with a game, don’t be afraid to make it easier or try something new.

Here are a few great games to try:

Hide n’ Seek (Intro to Coming When Called and Distance Stays)

Place your dog in a Sit or Down/ Stay. Walk a few feet away and call them to you in a very excited and fun tone. Reward when they come to you. Repeat the process, each time increasing your distance from the dog until you can go out of sight. Keep it simple at first, then slowly increase the difficulty level in finding you. Hide behind doors, in closets, and even outside (in a fenced area) to create a real challenge!  If your dog’s stay isn’t quite strong enough to play this game by himself, have someone hold them by leash and show your dog the reward you’ll have waiting for them when they come find you.  When you call, your helper drops the leash and your dogs scampers to find you.

Treasure Hunt (Intro to Impulse Control and Focus)

Put your dog in a down or sit stay and place a treat, toy, or something of moderate interest within sight. Wait a moment before releasing her to get the toy, encouraging her to go to the reward and eat it or play with it however she wants. Use a cue for this coupled with your release word.  If you say “OK” to release, then say something like “OK – Get it!”  in an excited tone.  If you act like you really love the game, your dog will pick up on your tone and be equally excited.  So if your dog isn’t extremely interested in the game to start, increase your energy and excitement to show them how fun it is.  Repeat this, varying where you place the reward and slowly increasing the value of the reward.  Start “hiding” the reward where the dog can’t see it, but where she can watch you place it and easily find it and retrieve it if she wants (behind a piece of furniture, for example). Release her to get the reward and guide her if she becomes confused. Next, hide the treat further away, then in another room, gradually increasing difficulty.  You can increase the distance and difficulty in finding the treasure as your dog gets better at the game. This is especially good for dogs that have begun to learn “stay” but are nervous about having their people go out of sight.  It is also a fantastic focus game to lengthen a puppy’s typically short attention span.

Clean Up

Get a box or bucket and collect a number of toys and other dog-safe items that you would like to teach your dog to recognize and clean up.   Scatter the toys in a small pile on the floor. Through shaping, get the dog to pick up the items one at a time and place them in your hand while giving the cue: “Clean Up.”  It helps if your dog already understands the concept of “Take it” and “Drop it” allowing you to start with these already familiar cues and work in the new “Clean Up” cue slowly.   Be sure to reward each “gift” with praise or treats (I’ve found exchanging one toy for another to be the easiest way to train this as treats distract most dogs from the game to start.)  While maintaining the fun of this “return for refund” game, move further and further from your dog adding distance to their retrieve.  Then introduce the toy bin and place each toy retrieved in the bin.  Lastly hold your hands over the bin and as soon as your dog drops the toy, move your hands allowing it to fall directly into the bin.  Praise heavily for this and get noticeably excited.  Repeat until your dog will place the toy directly into the bin without your hands present, then slowly move away from the bin each round adding more and more distance.  Your dog will likely lose interest in the early stages of teaching this game at first and that is fine.  Simply end the game on a high note and try again later.  This one can take a while to master and requires a lot of practice.

Tug (Confidence and Impulse Control During Heightened Excitement – Introducing the On/Off Switch)

The secret to playing this game successfully is for you, the human, to control it. For this game, choose one particular toy that will be used as your tug toy. Don’t use a bone, a leash, or anything that smells too much like you (like a sock) unless you are ok with all of your socks and undergarments becoming toys.  A good tug toy is long enough to avoid contact between a dog’s mouth and your hands, is sturdy, and is of interest to your dog.  This toy is special and unique for your dog, so it will be kept in a safe spot away from your pet until it is time to play.

You start the game by taking the toy out of it’s safe spot and encouraging your dog to mouth it with a cue like “Tug” or “Get it.” Some dogs will refuse to do this with you, especially if they’ve been punished for tugging in the past. If your dog is food motivated, try rubbing the toy with something tasty and smelly at first like a little peanut butter. However, tugging is instinctive for dogs (it’s a cooperative act in pack feeding) so your dog should catch on quickly. Tug a few times, then tell your dog “drop it” or “release.” Use a cheerful but clear tone. You can reward him for dropping it with either a treat, a different toy that he gets to play with for a minute, or another round of tug. Occasionally let your dog win by releasing the toy from your grip while saying “OK.” If your dog is the shy or timid type they should be allowed to win more often.   A more confident dog that who struggles with authority needs to win less often than you.

Remember Four on the Floor at all times – no jumping, leaping, or scratching allowed.  Angle your toy low to the ground so you don’t inadvertently encourage jumping behavior.  Any time your dog leaps or jumps, release your grip and turn your back stiffly to let your dog know you absolutely do not like and will not play with this behavior.   Make sure that you end the game if your dog gets too rough or agitated. Simply ask for a “drop it”, praise for it, and always put the toy away when you are done playing.

It takes two to tug!  If the dog refuses to let go, you let go of your end and walk away.  Wait until the energy has diminished a little and distract your dog with another toy so you can put the tug toy away.  The game always plays by your rules and begins and ends when you say it does.  It won’t take long for your dog to learn this and master the ability to turn off their excitement just as quickly as they can turn it on.

Fetch with Obedience (Impulse Control – Channeling Chase Instincts)

If your dog already retrieves the ball (or at least runs after it), have them sit and stay while you throw the ball. Attach a leash at first to make sure they stay when you ask them to. Then release them to “Fetch!” Reward the return of the ball with a chest scratch or a treat if needed. Build on the length of time that you ask them to stay slowly. This is an extremely good impulse control exercise for those dogs who just can’t wait to go get that ball!  For dogs who struggle with chasing things that they shouldn’t, work on this game to teach a similar attachment to the toy instead.  This can be used later in training to remove attention and focus from chasing bad things like cars, channeling that instinct into the ball (or fetch toy) instead.  For pro fetchers with great focus, increase difficulty by adding down and tricks before releasing to “Fetch!”

Other fun games to check out

Catch (with frisbee, ball, toys)

Racing (running to touch a target – dog must know “touch” on command)

Play & Freeze (incorporates games like Tug & Racing to build excitement, then challenges the dog to stop or “freeze” suddenly before play begins again)

Agility: formal or basic with hoop jumping, hurdles, and other props. You can even make your own props! (High impact and large jumps should only be done by dogs 12+ months of age.)

Tricks: If your dog loves to perform and has a knack for picking up the details, the possibilities are endless!*If you have more than one dog, it is equally important to spend quality time alone with each dog. Don’t hesitate to separate your dogs and play with one at a time, especially when playing a game or teaching them something new. Each of your lucky dogs will thank you for it.

For more in-depth rules and directions on teaching these games, check out books like 50 Games to Play with Your Dog and 101 Dog Tricks.

You’ve just gotten home from a long day at work.  You walk in the door and greet your happy, wagging dog only to get a wet mess in return.  The dam has burst, there’s no stopping the flow, and your fun hello has turned into a pee nightmare!   Before you know it your dog is stepping in the mess, jumping around with his peepee paws, and all you can do is try your best to manage this unsanitary scene before it spreads further.    The only thing that is worse is when it happens to your house guests.  Yikes – This is not a fun way to start a party.

Excitable Urination, as it is often called, results from an over-sensitivity to things that should be normal activities, but get built up as big events in the dog’s mind.  Common with younger dogs with weak bladders who still find the world around them very stimulating, or dogs who have had very limited exposure socially, these “accidents” often happen during greetings, rough play, or any activity the dog finds stimulating.  So if you are getting turbo-dog who wags, jumps, and slides around in his own pee in your honor at the door, chances are this is the challenge you are faced with.

Jack was so excited to see us as a puppy, it took a lot of self control to step away from a face like that and wait for him to calm. It paid off though, and now he can get through a hello pretty easily - so long as you don't mind some puppy kisses.

Submissive urination is a similar problem that may be contributing to, or the sole cause of, these sudden messes.  It may also be a result of exciting events like greetings, but may also happen when doing something as simple as being picked up or pet.  This behavior is often coupled with cowering or noticeable nervousness and fear, although it can also be a purely respectful behavior since urinating is a sign of the ultimate submissive.   This can often be observed when one dog cowers under the chin or belly of another, appearing calm but visibly nervous or tense.  Extremely submissive and less confident personality types often struggle with this, as well as dogs who have been neglected or trained using pain and fear techniques that break their trust with humans.

So how do you treat it? Unlike marking and full blown potty accidents, these types of  “accidents” are  more psychologically rooted.  They should never being addressed using correction or any type of punishment.  They must be treated holistically, addressing the root causes of behavior through improving the dog’s confidence, social skills, and self control.  In other words, training your dog out of this habit may take some time and dedication on your part.  The good news is:  It isn’t hard to do.

The exercises below illustrate a few of the most holistic approaches to treating these problems.  They are intended to build confidence, increase calm behavior, socialize, and remove any of the things people often do to unknowingly contribute to the problem.  Please note that having your dog checked out by a vet first is always recommended, as there can be medical issues that cause weak bladder control that should be ruled out first.

1.  Calm greetings result in calm behavior. Teach your dog to greet you calmly by waiting until they have relaxed before rewarding them with a hello, eye contact, or any physical touch.  It may seem cruel in human terms to ignore your excited dog after a long day of being away, but for dogs your actions translate to one thing:  Calm behavior gets attention; excited behavior is ignored.  Dogs will always do what works for them 100% of the time, so if excited doesn’t work, then excited will eventually go away.  Keep a look out for the calm behavior you want (ie: your dog comes and sits next to you calmly) and only reward that behavior with attention.

Start out by setting a time limit: No one touches, looks at, or talks to the dog in the first 5-10 minutes that you are home. Meanwhile everyone has ample time to set their things down, take their shoes off, and generally settle into being home too.  Once the dog has had ample time to relax and is demonstrating calm behavior, then everyone can say their hellos in a calm fashion one person at a time.  This is best done seated in a calm living space of the house where the dog is already accustomed to relaxing with the family.  IF the dog becomes excited at any time during greetings and begins to jump, cower, or become overly energetic (the signs that lead up to urination), simply ignore the dog, get up and walk away.

2. Redirect Energy and Avoid Messes. Assign one person to calmly and silently take the dog out immediately for a potty break when you get home.  If they can’t make it to the back door without releasing, keep a leash by your front door and get them outside before you go in.  Remember that this is within the time that everyone should be ignoring the dog, so interaction during this time should be limited to leashing and waiting (no petting, talking, or eye contact) – All attempts to get attention by the dog should be ignored and no commands should be given by the person.  Once they have pottied and have calmed down a bit outside, let them in the house off leash and continue the ignoring exercise until they calm.  If it is difficult to leash your dog, use a slip lead that easily slips over their head and pulls snug without fussing with a collar and clip leash.

3. Leave the Home Calmly.  Like your greetings, your exits also need to be calm and uneventful.  Avoid emotional departures where you hug and talk sweetly to your dog, as these are often misunderstood by dogs.  Your dog doesn’t know English, so instead of hearing “Bye-bye, sweetheart!  I’m sorry I have to leave,”  while you adoringly pet and hug them, your dogs sees you becoming distraught and hears you making worrisome sounds.  Seeing you visibly upset and sad does nothing for your dog but stress them out while they wait for you all day.   This makes your arrival home even more important to them, adding to any excitement they already feel.
It’s all about body language and tone for your dog, so act like leaving is no big deal with a brief good bye.  If you feel bad, reward them instead by giving them a little treat just before you head out the door.  This will help take their mind off of you potentially abandoning them, and may even add a little positive association to your departure.

4. Practice.  The more often you practice polite calm greetings (or any exciting scenario your dog struggles with), the more they will desensitize to the event.  So take note of what you usually do when you leave and arrive home, set up the exercise, and repeat it a few times a day.  Try this for a month and see how far your dog comes in a few short weeks.

5.  Play & Exercise. Walks, jogs, agility challenges and play all help a dog keep their nerves at bay and will increase confidence on a daily basis.   Teach your dog a few games to play in the house in case of bad weather like  Find the Toy. Be sure to challenge your dog on daily outings using your obedience training.
Keep it fun and use safe obstacles that your dog is not afraid of to work on balancing, crawling under or going over things.  Park benches, playground equipment, basic agility equipment or just sitting and staying at curbs can be easy little ways to make the walk more interesting and fulfilling for your dog.   Layer on the praise when they do well – dogs love a job well done.

6. Exercise the Jaws.  Chewing is also an exercise that older and younger dogs need consistently.  This activity has a noticeably calming effect on dogs, so don’t assume a dog is done chewing just because they aren’t destructive.   Behaviors resulting from boredom can manifest in many different ways including stress, which easily contributes to issues with submissive and excited urination.  Chewing helps relieve stress.    Our favorite chews are raw bones and sweet potato chews (Sams Yams is a great substitute for rawhide).  We find our dog’s stay calm and content if they get bones about twice a week, but this varies depending on the dog.  Choose whatever safe items your dog responds to for chewing*, adjust the frequency as needed, and monitor them for safety.

7. Socialize, Socialize, Socialize. Hands down the most fun, important and commonly overlooked exercise your dog can benefit from is meeting and playing with other dogs and people in new places.  Dogs are social animals, so being cooped up in a house all the time is not natural.  For healthy dogs that can handle the excitement, dog parks are a great option for burning steam and meeting some new faces (or should we say butts?).  Taking a trip once a week for 20 minutes can make all the difference and boost confidence rapidly.   For really energetic types, try enrolling your dog in a once or twice a week play group or dog daycare session.    If your dog is timid, fearful, or anti-social already, take it slow and keep it fun, making sure not to overwhelm them.  Set up a play time with a neighbor’s dog who you know is nice and social that can teach them a few things, or just practice meeting new people on walks one at a time.

8. Kennel. Last but certainly not least:  Use Your Kennel.

As den animals, dogs often find kennels soothing and reassuring (even though they may not act like it at first).  When introduced properly, this makes the kennel a perfect tool for reducing anxiety.   This will not work if your dog has a negative association with the kennel, so training your dog to accept the kennel first is a key step.   While we tend to feel guilty for limiting their freedom while we’re gone, a dog with too much freedom may become confused, shifty, and nervous.  This freedom can actually increase the level of anxiety and excitement we witness when arriving home, whereas a dog who has been napping safely all cozy in their kennel for a few hours will often greet us well-rested and calm.  While many dogs grow out of their kennels as they become more confident in their home, it is common for even the most well-socialized and confident dogs to need their kennel throughout life.  Don’t have a kennel?   Set up a cozy space in a laundry room or under a desk or large table for your dog to snuggle up in while you’re gone to see if that helps.  Practice teaching them to go to their bed on cue.  The odds are good that they will accept this space and use it to feel safer while you’re away.

What not to do:

You are building confidence and teaching your dog, so keep this in mind before you react.

• Never punish your dog for excited or submissive urination.  Even the slightest sounds of disappointment can make this problem ten times worse.   Everyone’s silence, understanding, and patience on this matter is key to resolving the problem faster.
• Do not talk to, look at, or touch your dog when they are excited.  Every bit of attention they receive while in this mind-frame only increases their excitement and rewards their behavior.  Eye contact counts because it lets your dog know they have your attention.
• Do not give your dog treats right after arriving home. When leaving this is ok since you are attaching a positive association with your exit.  But when arriving this will only increase your dog’s excitement and reward excited behavior.

May all your hellos be dry, polite, and wagging.

*Note:  Some chemicals used to create, color and preserve various pet chews on the market are not good for the animal and may contribute to behavioral problems and obesity.  Take the time to read the ingredients and stick to naturally preserved or all natural choices for healthy chews and happy dogs.

It’s Spring and our dogs are all itching to go on some new adventures. Festivals, parks, and patios, here we come. But wait! After such a chilling Winter we’ve noticed our manners are a tad rusty; so we thought we’d share our tips on keeping an excited pooch on their best behavior while getting the most out of the fun times ahead.

1. Be prepared.
Bring waste bags, treats, and all of the training tools that you may need to have a pleasant outing with your dog. Don’t forget the water and a snack if you’re going to be out long.

2. Leave on the right note.
Your dog only needs some basic obedience and your solid guidance and confidence to behave in public. Start your adventures off with a polite exit from your house.  “Sit” and “Wait” (or “Stay” if you do not use “Wait”) at the door.  You exit, then invite them to come with you (we like “Let’s Go”). If your dog gets overly excited about going places, practice a little obedience in the front yard before leaving to gain focus.  If riding in the car, have your dog sit and “wait” or “stay” before releasing them to enter and exit the vehicle.

Lyla and Crystal Enjoy the View

3. “Stop” at all curbs and street crossings.
Dogs must learn to look both ways too!

4. Be aware.

Walk confidently, look ahead, and provide guidance for your dog on how they should behave towards upcoming distractions by using cues like “Leave it.” Communicate clearly with cues you have already taught your dog. Remember: they usually see it and smell it before you do, so stay sharp when it comes to upcoming obstacles and use your cues well before the excitement gets the best of them.

5. Don’t forget to smell the flowers.
Release them with “Go Ahead” to smell in the grass, potty, or just check something out.  When you are ready to go, call them back to walk nicely and continue your walk.

6. Step aside.
“Sit” and “Stay” for strangers, bicycles and other obstacles to pass.

7. “Sit” for greetings.
Easier said than done, right? If your dog is excited to meet people, you will need to teach them how to approach a person first. Allowing your dog to pull you towards new

things only teaches them that pulling works and encourages excitability and jumping. So stop as soon as pulling occurs and turn and walk the opposite direction. This introduces a new result – one that tells your dog that pulling gets them further away from their goal. The behavior will stop all together when your dog realizes it doesn’t work, so naturally they will want to try a different approach, and so you simply tell them what you want. It’s simple: As long as the leash is loose, they get closer to their goal. If you already use a walk nicely cue (“Let’s Go,” “With Me,” or “Heel”), then give your dog the cue to let them know what you want. Be patient and practice this one many times so your dog has an opportunity to connect the dots: pulling = go nowhere. Walking nice = meeting new people. And repeat.

Once you are able to approach nicely, then you get to the hardest part about greetings: managing the stranger petting your dog. If they reinforce rude behavior, then all

your hard work training can be lost. Thankfully most people will ask to pet your dog first. Use the phrase “Only if he/she sits” in response and automatically involve them

in the training process. Most people will ask your dog to sit right away, hence joining you in your efforts to teach good manners. If the dog jumps during any part of the greeting, simply end the greeting. It won’t be long before your dog automatically sits for everyone – a result well worth a few awkward social moments with strangers. Sit = happy pets from new exciting people. Jump = bye.

8. Respect your dog’s decisions.
If your dog is too excited to say hello, spooked by someone, or does not react well in any way, do not be afraid to tell the stranger that they cannot pet your dog. “Please do not pet my dog – He/She is in training” works well to politely turn people away. You may encourage your dog, but never force your dog to approach anything they are frightened of. Likewise, if your dog seems uncomfortable and wants to get away from someone during petting. It is VERY important to let them walk away. There is nothing wrong with a dog who simply doesn’t feel like being pet. Your dog will appreciate and trust you more if you support their decisions. They’ll also be a lot less likely to bite when they feel afraid because they know you are there to look out for them!

9. Walk away when in doubt.
If you have lost control of the situation, or sense that you cannot maintain control of your dog, turn around, walk away, and regain your control.  Have your dog sit or down and stay to calm them.

10. Practice!
Exposure will teach your dog that: Although the world around them changes, the rules do not.  Take them out around new people and places at least 20 minutes a week. During early training we recommend at least twice a week to keep it fresh in their minds. Old dogs can forget, but they can also learn new things. Young or old, never stop socializing and teaching your dog new things.

11. Rest.
A tired dog can be a good dog, but an exciting field trip can leave your dog exhausted. Like children, dogs get cranky when they are tired and may become defiant and throw tantrums. Give your dog adequate breaks on your outings and listen to them when they tell you they have had enough.

Happy Adventuring!

The Leaps N’ Hounds Team