I am not a vet or canine nutritionist, but I have worked with thousands of dogs and seen first hand the positive and negative effects food has on them. It dramatically effects the way they feel, how much they shed, how they smell, the brightness in their eyes, how much they eliminate, how they age, their long term vet bills, and, most importantly, how they feel and behave.

I try to help all of my clients make educated and reasonable decisions on what food best suits their pets as a very important part of their training. Feeding your dog a healthy diet free of fillers, chemicals, and poisonous preservatives is the most important thing you can do for them.

There is no magic answer to the question: 'What is the best food?' While we do provide a short list of some of our favorites at the bottom of this article, this is only our opinion and there are always people who will disagree. Anyone who tries to research dog food learns quickly that opinions vary widely and the information is overwhelming. So instead of becoming a canine nutrition expert, stick to what (or should we say who) you know best: your dog!

Breed, age, size, activity level, allergies, sensitivities, tastes, etc. all should factor into your food choice. First read up about your dog's breed and energy needs. Consider common ailments and food sensitivities that they may be prone to. Also, watch and listen to your dog. There is no reason to force your dog into eating something they don't like; and since they can't tell you verbally when something makes them feel bad, pay attention to how they react and trust them. Dogs don't lie - it's one of the many reasons we find them so endearing.

Then make an educated decision on your food. Buy a small amount first to give it a test run, and transition them slowly from an old food. Many stores that offer high quality dog foods also carry free samples. If you are feeding a low grade food like Pedigree, Purina, Beneful, or even some Nutro foods, you will find the transition may take a little more time. Take it slow. A lot of commercial foods in this very unregulated industry contain bad chemicals and fillers and are flavored with fatty content to make your dog love them. Just because it tastes good doesn't make it good, otherwise I would live on Snickers bars and pizza. So give your dog time to acclimate to new foods and work the bad stuff out of their system slowly. They may also need a little more time to accept the healthier food as it tastes different, but most accept it pretty quickly, if not happily and right away.

Before reading on we will preface this list by saying that none of the foods on this list are "cheap" dog foods. While some are more cost efficient than others, we assume that by reading this article you are genuinely interested in feeding your animal something that won't make them sick. The fact is: $28 for a 30lb bag of dog food = crap. It is not possible to produce healthy food for an animal in this price range. Pictures of carrots on the bag and that cute commercial on Animal Planet do not equate to healthy dog food. When in doubt, look at the ingredient list. If you see the words corn, by-product, or sugar anywhere in that list - especially towards the top, run, don't walk, away from this food. Corn = poop ...literally. It goes in one end and comes out the other. By-products = Cancer. Seriously, these are the parts of animals that a vulture would walk away from. And sugar = empty calories = fat = diabetes. So $28 for a bag of poop, cancer, and diabetes? Now THAT is overpriced!

The foods on this list range anywhere from $40-$70 a bag for anywhere from 28-35 lbs of food. Prices vary depending on where you buy them from, so shop around. We are fond of Tomlinson's for convenience, Bark & Purr in north central Austin for variety, and www.doggiefood.com for online discounts. Don't bother with PetSmart - we don't know why, but their dog food selection is weak, to put it nicely. PetCo carries many of the foods on this list, but they can be a little over-zealous on the mark-ups. We encourage checking your local feed store for the best deals.

This is not a complete list of the best foods out there. These are just the ones that we have direct experience with, found to be worth the money, and are easily purchased at local pet supply stores. Most, if not all, of these foods are free of fillers like corn and soy, use higher quality ingredients with no by-products and less (if any) meat "meal", and are preservative and dye free.

**Download a simplified printable pdf version of this list at the bottom of this article.

Dry Kibble & Canned Varieties

-Halo Spot's Stew: Small kibble great for little & big dogs, gives a great coat, palatable. A little expensive, but still one of our all time favs! Our cats LOVE this stuff too.

-Taste of the Wild: Great value for the quality, high protein content, lots of protein/meat choices to keep your dog's diet full of variety. Our big dogs with varying needs all do well on this food.

-Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance: Decent ingredient list and a more budget conscious option. Limited ingredient options available for allergic dogs, and vegetarian (vegan option) is the most palatable that we have tried aside from freeze dried foods.

-Innova and Evo: Voted as one of the best dog foods on the market. Omega 3 & 6 fatty acids and probiotics. Tends to have a healthier taste than most, so if your dog is picky, definitely try a few samples first.

-Orijen: Grain free with 70%meat and 30% veggie. Premium grade food and the price reflects this, but so do the ingredients.

-Merrick: Available in a variety of creative flavors like "Grammy's Pot Pie", quality ingredients, and add a little water to create gravy making this food suitable for even the most discerning dogs.

-Prairie: Super Premium food, high protein, grain free, very palatable, freeze dried raw coating added for "live" enzymes. One of the more expensive foods on this list, but the ingredients reflect this.

-Wellness: Available everywhere, quality ingredients, and gives a nice coat. Also have new limited ingredient options for allergic and sensitive dogs. This one can be a little rich for some dogs and it's also pretty pricey. Still, we have to include it as we've met many dogs who thrive on this food.

-Solid Gold: Another budget-friendly option with high quality ingredients. Holistic, small breed, and grain free options available. We like to add omega 3 & 6 fatty acids to this to add to the coat conditioners.

Other Food Options:

Freeze Dried foods like The Honest Kitchen and Addiction are our favorite choice of ALL the foods.

While expensive, we buy these in bulk for a discount and add them into our dog's diets regularly. Second only to feeding raw, we actually prefer these options as they take out the guess work for serving size and nutrition, and make food preparation fast and easy while still getting the benefits of feeding a more natural diet: better breath, nicer coat, less elimination, and healthy hydration.

For dogs who need to lose a little weight, we highly recommend Honest Kitchen's Verve.

These are also an excellent option for the old toothless pooches who would otherwise be forced to live on canned food. These are much healthier and just as easy to consume.

Raw and Cooked Natural Diets

Who in their right mind cooks for their dog? Well, the entire population of dog owners up until about 100 years ago when commercial dog food was first introduced. But for thousands of years before that, our dogs thrived very well on "human food."

There is no difference between human food and dog food - except that dog food has been processed in one respect or another and formulated with a balance of vitamins deemed healthy for dogs. But when you break it all down, it's just veggies, fruits, grains, and meats - the same exact stuff that 95% of Americans eat.

Companies like Primal and Nature's Variety have taken some of the guess work out of feeding raw and are becoming more available at local pet supply stores. So if you are interested in feeding your dog a more natural balanced diet where the food is not processed, but don't have the time to prepare the food, these are pretty great options.

A more cost-effective way of feeding raw or cooked diet is to read a few books first and do it yourself. Also, keep in mind that just because you choose to feed your dog actual meals from time to time doesn't mean you must do it all the time. Make it a special occasion or just something you do a few times a week. There are thousands of recipes out there from complex to simple, vegetarian , grain free, allergy friendly, and the list goes on. You don't have to worry about transitioning with raw or cooked diets either - these are natural and most dogs acclimate to them without issue.

Additional References

If you have any questions on why a food made or didn't make this list, please feel free to email me.

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/8_7/features/15728-1.html Great article from Whole Dog Journal on choosing food.

My favorite dog food review site - http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com

A Few Great DIY Dog Food Books:

Raw Dog Food: Make it Easy for You and Your Dog
The Healthy Dog Cookbook: 50 Nutritious & Delicious Recipes Your Dog Will Love

'Shaping Behavior' - Useful in countless ways when teaching your dog new things, the idea is to move slow in your teaching, introducing tiny changes while allowing your dog to adjust to each.

Even the most reluctant dog can be taught to lay down on their own accord by slowly luring them down to the floor. While the dog may be reluctant to flop down on the first try, a treat or praise is given at first just for following the treat downward (this is called "marking" the behavior) . The 2nd or 3rd try requires the dog to go even lower before treating, and so on. Even the most reluctant dogs will figure out that it is easiest to relax and lay down - and then JACK POT! Give an extra tasty treat for success!

Teach more complicated tricks using shaping too! Teach your dog to Hi-5 by introducing shake first - simple trick based on sit and repetition. Once they can shake consistently, gradually move your hand into a Hi-5 position. The dog will adjust their paw to meet your hand. Lastly change the cue word to Hi-5 and viola! Shake is for lamers at the dog park. Show them how the cool dogs Hi-5!

Now that your dog can shake and hi-5, what can you teach them next? Wave? Close a door? Turn off a light?

*Tips*
Small or extremely reluctant dogs may do best starting on a towel, dog bed, chair, or raised platform before graduating to the floor. Get them comfortable with the action first, then try a new less comfortable setting.

Keep training sessions short (2-5 min max) and do not expect 100% success on your first try. Keep it fun and take it as slowly as your dog needs while continuing to challenge them.

Potty Training can feel like a monster of a project, so I'm creating this series to cover the process in parts. This is written directed at puppies but don't worry, it works with older dogs too. It's almost never too late to potty train your dog, regardless of age or size.

These are the tools you'll need for quick success:

1. Potty Treats These aren't just any treat, these are magic treats! We are aiming to motivate here, and that puppy needs a reason to want to go outside. Since the idea of pleasing you doesn't come until later (you may have noticed everything is a joke to a puppy), food is the fastest way to get most dogs headed to the door. Our secret weapon: Easy Cheese and/or Natural Peanut Butter! You only potty train once and there isn't much a dog won't do for Easy Cheese. If you are using them for something else, stop and reserve those special treats just for post-potty bliss. There are plenty of other options you can use for chew toys, kongs, etc. If you have a picky dog, use both treats, switching from one to the other every 3rd or 4th time to keep it interesting. Timing is everything, so make sure you are treating immediately after your puppy is done going and stay close to them. *Important! Don't use too much! Peanuts and cheese can both constipate your pup, so keep it to a taste. A Great Dane puppy gets about a nickel-sized dollop, so scale it down accordingly. They don't need a peanut butter mustache to know they have done a good job.

2. A Potty Word Tell them what you want, but keep in mind you will be saying this a lot. Popular choices are: 'Go Potty' and 'Hurry Up.' Of course there are always the standards: Tee-tee, poo-poo, #1 and #2 (all of which still make us giggle despite our efforts to act maturely). Some people get creative with their potty commands. One of our clients prefers the term, "bombs away," while another simply calls it, "tinkle time."
Anyway, use your potty word in an excited tone when in the back yard and waiting for the 'magic' to happen. Praise with it too, saying something like, "Good boy! Good potty!" You can also use it at your door on the way out, which brings us to our next item on the list.

3. Potty Bells Hang small, light-weight bells from door that your dog exits through to go potty. Ring them before going out and say your potty word in a happy tone. Your dog will learn to associate the bell noise with going out and the potty word. Sometimes this takes weeks, sometimes months; but if our cats can do it without any coaching, so too will your dog. Using bells gives your dog an easy method to communicate with you and helps prevent demanding barking and door scratching,.
You can buy potty bells online (search for poochie bells to get an array of options), or make them with a little ribbon and some bells from the craft store. We like to add a little mesh pouch to the top of ours to hold a few treats just to speed the process along. We'll sneak a few treats in there when the pup isn't looking and wait for them to sniff them out. As soon as they jump up to get the treats, the bells make noise and we run for the door. The puppy is praised, the door is opened, the puppy goes out, and after a few times the puppy starts to realize that the bell noise means go outside. VIOLA! Communication is born!

4. A Potty Place Pick a good spot for #1 and #2 - your dog will want to do them each separately. If using your backyard, pick a corner or the side of the house and keep it scooped up on a regular basis. A few piles here and there are OK to remind your pooch what that spot is for, but land mine city will make them want to avoid the place all together. Teaching them to go in specific spots not only prevents your back yard from becoming a big toilet, your dog will recognize what you are waiting for much faster this way and develop some clean habits of their own.

5. Leash and Collar How do you expect to take them to the potty place and give them the magic treat without having them on a leash, silly? Puppies romp, roll, and play whenever they're awake. They don't have time to focus, so if you expect to get them out and treated on time, then you better have them connected to you. Even if your puppy remembers they need to go outside to go potty, chances are good that half way out there they will become distracted by a leaf, a feather, or the kryptonite of all dogs: the dreaded squirrel. They may forget entirely why they were out there to begin with. Even if your puppy goes, odds are good that they will become distracted mid-potty! As soon as they finish, they are off to the next interesting smell! If not on leash, you will likely be treating your dog after a refreshing chase around the back yard yelling: "Stop! Come here! No, no!" To which your puppy will think: "I almost like the chase more than the treat. Let's do that again!" Trust me: stick to the leash.

6. A Den Space Otherwise known as a kennel, this can be the traditional crate (plastic or metal box with a door) or a small, confined, and puppy-proofed space ideally on tile floor. Their den is more than just where they sleep and stay when you are gone, it is the space where they learn bladder control. Thankfully dogs are clean animals, which means a healthy puppy that is at least 12 weeks will know that pottying in their bed is smelly and gross. This is usually something they pick up from their mothers and litter mates. This creates the desire to hold it until they can get out, hence giving you the opportunity to put them in the right place at the right time to go. So you are teaching them bladder control, a potty schedule, and preventing accidents all at the same time!
How long can your puppy hold it? To estimate add +1 hour for every month of age. So if your puppy is 3 months old (approximately 12 weeks) they can hold it for about 4 hours max during the day. If you are going to be gone longer, leave your dog in a den space that is large enough to house a potty pad so that they can go if they need to. Otherwise the den space only needs to be large enough for them to turn around and lay down. Think: snuggly cave bed.

7. Time and Patience Puppies are babies, and older dogs' minds operate similarly to that of a 4-year-old child. While different dogs learn at different rates, it is not fair or reasonable to expect a puppy to potty train in a matter of days. For many it takes weeks and even months to truly understand. The more dedicated and consistent that you are, the faster your dog will train. Going into it expecting anything different will only disappoint you, aggravate your puppy, and disrupt the delicate bond that is forming between you and your dog. Be patient, be present, and prepare. Avoid common mistakes: never spank or yell too harshly at your dog for accidents. You'll only scare them and create an unstable dog who is too shy to go potty in front of you. A simple "uh-uh, bad dog" will usually do the trick.
Watch them like you would a toddler, catch them if they have an accident, and consider it an opportunity to teach them where they should be going: Watch, Catch, Teach. If you can't be home in time to let them out, call a friend, neighbor, family member, or pet sitter to come do it for you. Set time aside to potty train your puppy and give it all of your effort up front. Sure, you may be up early in the mornings and out freezing your butt off or sweating while you wait for your dog to go, but it's a few weeks or months of your life - a drop in the bucket compared to the 10-20 years of potty-trained bliss you will be spending with your furry friend once the work is done.

Future Potty Training blogs to come will cover: exceptions to the rules, creating a schedule, potty triggers, common problems, and tricks of the trade. Happy pottying, or should we say: BOMBS AWAY!

Under your Christmas tree rests a myriad of gifts. Video games, clothes, action figures, dolls, and a puppy wearing a bow all await eager little wrapping paper tearing hands.

Wait, did someone say puppy?

Of course! After all, what is a childhood without a puppy and all of the valuable lessons about love, compassion, dedication, and how puppies are objects no different from a Wii - easily used for entertainment, then turned off when not needed?

Hold up - That's still not right. Hmm...considering the context, it sounds like puppies may not belong under that tree after all.

Seriously, here's my point: What do you hope your children will learn from having a pet? In what light should a child view an animal: As a toy put there for their amusement; or a living, breathing, sentient being?

Dogs, cats, reptiles, and birds - These hardly belong in the same category as the Tonka Truck or Barbie under the tree. We're all for the love of dogs, and we fully support parents who want to teach their children compassion, responsibility, and the importance of caring for someone other than just themselves. We just think presenting an animal as a gift, or viewing one as a tool in child rearing, is contradictory to the point. A pet should be introduced as a new respected addition to a family, not an object.

Giving a puppy for Christmas is very similar to giving a baby.

A baby? No one gives a baby as a gift! That's just wrong! True, but consider potty training, baby-proofing, spending tons of money, medical care, and sleepless nights - These not only make terrible surprises, they are also things that every baby and puppy have in common. Furthermore, ten-year-old children make wonderful friends, but terrible parents. A child alone is not capable or interested in giving the level of care, attention, and dedication it takes to raise a puppy, just as they are not ready to become parents.

It takes one person to adopt a puppy, but it takes an entire family to raise one. So if the entire family isn't ready to share the responsibility, maybe the time isn't right.

So what is the best way to introduce a puppy or dog into the family?

1. Call a family meeting. Discuss the positive and negative impact a puppy could have on the family. Who will feed, walk, clean up after, play with, and teach the dog? Is everyone willing to make sacrifices for the new dog? If everyone is on board and excited, then great! Now give it a few weeks to sink in while you figure out the rest. The anticipation and excitement building up to adoption day will be better than any Christmas surprise.

2. Decide on a puppy or older dog. All puppies are difficult and cute, but you can count on the difficult lasting a lot longer than the cute. In just 16 weeks you'll have a full blown dog with all of the typical puppy problems. They are destructive, high-maintenance, mouthy, and they poop and pee freely until trained to do otherwise. If this doesn't sound like a walk in the park to you, then you may consider adopting an older dog who is already through the terrible two's and teens - one that will not eat your baseboards and couch cushions. With a little temperament testing it isn't difficult to meet a mature dog that will fit in beautifully with your family. Make no mistake: mature dogs *can* bet taught new tricks. It is not necessary to raise a dog from puppyhood to get the personality you want. There are no guarantees with dogs, not even puppies. In fact, it's much easier to assess and older dog for stability than it is a puppy.

3. What type of dog will you adopt? Want a swimmer, a fetcher, a runner, or a couch potato? Different dog breeds have varying tendencies depending on what they were bred to do. If you don't mind your Border Collie herding the kids around the house, nipping you in the butt, and needing four walks a day, then maybe this breed is right for you. However, if the energetic types drive you nuts, you may be surprised what breeds tend to be the most easy going. Small in size does not mean laid back, just as large dogs aren't all hyper and clumsy. Every breed has their challenges and strengths, so research before you adopt and try to single out a few that are the right mix for your family in personality, coat type, and exercise needs. If adopting from a shelter, take photos of the breeds you looking for with and ask for assistance in finding dogs with certain personality characteristics. Of course, there are retrievers who hate water and won't fetch, just as there are chihuahuas who love everyone and never bark. Take time to get to know the dog a little before making too many assumptions about their personality.

4. Most importantly: Decide where to get a dog.
DO NOT go to a pet store. The majority of these dogs come from puppy mills - a cruel and sick industry that tortures animals, creates sick and inbred dogs, and feeds off of public ignorance. Are these the type of people you want to pay?
DO NOT make an impulse buy on the side of the road. These dogs are from puppy mills and dirty backyards too. The sweet family that you are about to hand your hard-earned $300-$800 to breeds dogs for profit. These people often buy their dogs from Mexican puppy mills, then smuggle them over the border to make 5-10 times the money. They do not care about those animals and they do not care about you. If they seem otherwise it is because they are well-rehearsed con artists. If you feel compelled to save their dogs, stomach it and drive directly to your local shelter. You'll find plenty more dogs there who need to be saved, and your money will go to a group aimed at stopping this vicious industry instead of feeding it.
DO NOT buy from back yard breeders. Well bred dogs are not bred in the dirt or the laundry room, and they certainly aren't the product of some family's beloved in-tact Pit Bull who made babies with the neighbor's Mastiff, nor are they cute "____-a-poo" mixes. There is science, investment, and tons of dedication in breeding pure bred dogs - and even then there are some serious ethical questions to be answered like:
How does one rationalize breeding more dogs when, for every one human in the U.S., there are seven homeless dogs on death row? The costs often outweigh the profits for breeders too, making it a much less profitable industry than one might think. The motivations behind why a breeder is making more puppies should be seriously evaluated. Plus, the circles in which champion dogs are bred are elitist, expensive, and highly selective about who their dogs go to. If all you are wanting is a good family dog, there is absolutely no reason to purchase one from a breeder, no matter what your requirements are. Trust that there are literally hundreds, even thousands, of dogs who would give you exactly what you are looking for.

DO adopt from a shelter. Big, small, purebreds, mutts, allergy-friendly breeds, puppies, and potty trained dogs galore! They come vetted for a nominal adoption fee and they are always grateful to finally have a home. Don't make the mistake of thinking these are throw away dogs. Plenty of rescues have won obedience and agility competitions. Mutts tend to have more stable temperaments and fewer health issues than purebreds. We prefer the term 'originals' instead of mutt in our family.
DO adopt from breed-specific rescues. If you have your heart set on a purebred, we understand. We know there's no face quite like that of a Golden's and no nubby butt wiggle like that of a Boxer's. Because of this intense love of certain breeds there are breed-specific rescues. These groups end up with the dogs from people who don't consider number three on this list before rushing out to buy a dog. Sadly, people buy hounds and are surprised when they bark; they buy Yorkies and are appalled when they are difficult to potty train; and the list goes on. When these people realize that they made a poor decision, they take the dog to a shelter. IF that dog is lucky, a breed-specific rescue will be able to pull them from death row. These organizations are largely foster family based and go to great lengths to work with the dogs and place them in homes that are well-suited for them. They often have pretty intense application and qualification processes because of this and will want to know lots of personal information about an adopter before they let one of their beloved dogs go. They will tell you the truth about the dog and any challenges you need to be prepared for. Want a tiny teacup pooch or a giant dog? No worries, there are size-specific rescues too!

So now you have adopted your pooch and are ready to start the new year. Everyone is excited and your children even learned a bit more about responsibility, making wise decisions, and doing the right thing. Now it's time to take some cute family photos, play with some toys, teach some tricks, and enjoy some long walks together.

Happy Holidays!

There is nothing wrong with wanting to share the festivities with your dog during the holidays. After all, I'm sure the local dogs were just as thankful for the left overs as the Native Americans and Pilgrims were for their meal.

Personally I don't eat turkey, but our dogs do! We have 4 large dogs in our house this holiday season - all romping, running and barking at random moments throughout the day. When the family comes over, there will be two more! Inside and outside they will go, cool breezy weather on their heels, zooming about like little rocket-fueled fur ships. Life is good. But a tryptophan-induced food coma for all of them starts sounding pretty delightful about 2 hours into it when the charm of puppy play wears off! Oh yeah, and turkey can be good for them. Did I mention that?

With so many things going on in the kitchen, it can also be dangerous to share too much. So here are some tips on what goes in and what stays out of your dog's tummy.

1.) The Turkey. Fried turkey (or fried anything), cooked turkey bones, and fatty run off used in gravies etc is bad. Cooked poultry bones are dangerous and splinter. Also save the carbohydrate coma for yourself and spare your dog the stuffing. Bread and dogs don't mix.
This leaves the meat of an oven baked turkey, and the insides and neck which should be taken out first and fed raw. If you are hesitant about feeding raw to your dog, stick to cooked meat only to be safe.

2.) Don't forget the fruits and veggies!
We love to mix up a batch of cooked sweet potatoes (no butter), pumpkin, tomatoes, and whatever other fixins (usually par-cooked or uncooked veggies) to share with our canines on the holidays. It's good for them and they love it!
If your dog is more carnivore than omnivore, sneak them in with some turkey and they probably won't even think about the greens.

3.) Pay attention. Consider what is in that casserole or salad before sharing it. Onions, raisins, grapes, mushrooms, heavy cream and buttery dishes, sugary goods, cocoa, and pastas are no good for your dog. Many of these items just upsets tummies while the others can be toxic. Steer clear.

4.) A little goes a long way. Avoid allowing your dog to snack throughout the day and feed them one special treat or small meal instead. The surprise of puppy tummy upsets is never a welcome one and all those tid bits add up in that little stomach. Managing our own gorged bellies is hard enough!

5.) "People food" does not create beggars and counter surfers - people do!
Simply do not ever feed your dog from the table and they will not beg. If those dog-friendly scraps land in their dish after the meal, then the food still comes from their dish - not the table or the counter. Have your dog sit, lay down, or do a trick before receiving their special yummies and take advantage of the opportunity to enforce good manners.

Now we're off to drink some cider and eat some of everything.
To you and your family (bipeds and quadrupeds): please have a healthy and happy holiday!

It's official: Leaps n' Hounds has moved to Austin and is now taking new clients!

We love this city and all of it's furry citizens and are very excited to be here. Please give us a call or email to set up a free consult for you and your furry friend!

To our beloved Houston clients,

We will miss you, but we will keep in touch!
Please do not hesitate to shoot us an email if you need follow up training or just need advice. We said you get puppy tech support for life, and we meant it! Also, we will still be in the Houston area regularly and Crystal will come out personally or refer you to one of the other wonderful trainers that we work with in the area if you need us.

Sincerely,
Crystal Dunn

Regardless of whether or not your dog or cat is purchased or adopted, most of us learn pretty quickly that there is no such thing as a cheap pet. In fact, we spend so much money on our pets every month, it is factored into our budget right next to the electricity bill. So we're crossing our fingers that this one gets passed!

"The HAPPY Act was introduced on 31 July, 2009, and was written based on research supplied by the American Pet Products Association's National Pet Owners Survey and was then referred to the House Committee on Ways and Means. The Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council is giving their full support and issued an alert on 5 August, 2009:

"Providing pet owners the opportunity to deduct pet care expenses is an important step toward ensuring that pet owners provide adequate veterinary and other necessary pet care. It encourages responsible pet ownership and will hopefully reduce the abandonment of pets by people struggling as a result of the economic downturn.""

Reprinted from PetWellBeing.com

View the article and the act in detail at:
http://www.petwellbeing.com/articles/2009/08/tax-deductions-for-pet-care...

If we had a dollar for every pet product we've ever tried, well... we'd probably spend it all on more pet things. Over the years we've gotten pretty good at figuring out what's worth the money and not, so we thought we'd share a few of our recent favorites. Check back regularly for more updates on this growing list or email us if you need recommendations.

The Amaze-a-ball provides hours of focused fun. We love them because, unlike so many other treat balls, these are more challenging for the dog and their soft rubber doesn't make noise or scuff up the baseboards.

The Chomp company wins our praise for their new treat Sniffers 101 dog treats. Soft enough to break into small training bits, we have yet to meet a dog who will turn these yummy morsels down. The calming herbs in them thankfully won't dope up your dog, but we have noticed some calming effects on some of our most excitable students.

Speaking of calm HomeoPet's Anxiety Drops and other holistic, all natural calming drops really do work! We've found them particularly useful when working with our high anxiety, aggressive, reactive and emotionally unstable dog friends. Even our own Jack-Jack overcame his car sickness with the help of their Travel Anxiety drops. They are not a cure-all, but they are a great help in conjunction with certain types of training.

Finally we found an indestructible dog toy! Abo Gear's Jute Dog Toys meet all of our toy requirements! They are eco-friendly, safe, come in a variety of sizes and shapes; and some have crinkle, squeaker, and shaker sound effects. Most importantly, they survived the Jack-Jack Destructo Dog chew test! We found ours at Petco, but hope that the local pet boutiques will carry them soon! They aren't cheap at $6-$9 a pop, but hey, at least they'll be around for a while.

Got a wolfer who thinks eating is a race? We found these Dog Pause food dishes and love them! Overzealous chowing contributes to gas, coprophagia (Poop eating -eew!), and other health hazards, so needless to say, we were ecstatic when these bowls forced our chow hounds to take it down a notch. Our evenings are a lot less... eh-hem... gassy now too.

Now we know that most of our clients are dogs, but we love our cat friends too! And nothing shows them love like our favorite Catnip Spray. Not only does it empower our lazy house cats to move and roll again, but there's no messy catnip to vacuum up after the fact. It also works great for redirecting scratching urges to the appropriate spots: like the cat scratching post - not the couch! Ripley gives this stuff two paws up!

P.S. We do not get paid for any of these endorsements nor do we distribute any of these items at this time. We are considering buying stock in a few of these companies because we buy so much stuff from them, but that is beside the point. Our point is, these are non-biased opinions here, so yeah...there you have it.

Taken from the LnH Newsletter - March 2009

We all know that belly rubs are great and that one spot you scratch, you know the one that summons the ticklish back leg kick? Yeah, that's the spot! But the luckiest dogs will tell you that, aside from the great belly scratches they receive on a regular basis, their lives also include lots and lots of games that keep their minds sharp and their bodies busy!

Games aren't just a form of entertainment for your dog. They also help build confidence, spend excess energy, increase focus, and create a sense of stability and comfort in the home. Games can also decrease destructive urges by giving a more constructive outlet for releasing pent-up energy. Games can give your dog a sense of purpose, a challenge, and a job to do. All of these factors contribute to your dog's overall well being and, best of all, build a stronger bond of trust and respect with you!

There are good ways and bad ways to play with your dog. If your dog loves to steal your underpants and run away while you chase them around the house, you've experienced some of the undesirable side effects of the chase game first hand. If they are failing to see the difference between your hands and chew toys, you may be inadvertently encouraging mouthing by wresting and playing too rough with your pooch. Playing with your pup should build good behavior, not bad habits.

A good game for a dog should engage their mind first. There should be clear rules outlined for them during this game using training cues that they have been taught in advance. For example, Fetch can be played using cues like Sit, Stay, Fetch, Come, and Drop it. If you find a game that you think your dog will love, make sure you prepare them ahead of time by teaching them any new cues that they may need to understand the game first. Then teach the game one step at a time. Every dog is different, and may respond to one game more than another. If your dog isn't having fun with a game, don't be afraid to make it easier or try something new.

Here are a few great games to try:

Hide n' Seek

Place your dog in a Sit or Down/ Stay. Walk a few feet away and call them to you in a very excited and fun tone. Reward when they come to you. Repeat the process, each time increasing your distance from the dog until you can go out of sight. Keep it simple at first, then slowly increase the difficulty level in finding you. Hide behind doors, in closets, and even outside (in a fenced area) to create a real challenge!

Treasure Hunt

Put your dog in a down-stay and place a treat (or toy) within sight. Return to your dog and release her, and encourage her to go to the treat -- she can eat it or play with it. Repeat this, varying where you put the treat. Next time, "hide" the treat where the dog can't see it, but she can see you putting it there (behind a piece of furniture, for example). Release her, and let her get the treat (show her if necessary). Next, hide the treat further away, then in another room, out of sight, and if she stays in her "stay" let her find it. You can increase the distance, difficulty, and even number of treats as your dog gets better at "stay". This is especially good for dogs that have begun to learn "stay" but are nervous about having their people go out of sight.

Clean Up

Get a box or bucket and collect a number of toys and other dog-safe items (don't start with things your dog likes to hoard or that you don't want them ever touching). Scatter the toys in a small pile on the floor. Through shaping and teasing, get the dog to pick up the items one at a time, and place them in your hand. It helps if your dog already understands the concept of "Take it" and "Drop it." Be sure to reward each "gift" with praise or treats if needed (treats may distract from the game so don't let your dog know you have them ahead of time. Make it harder and harder to put stuff in your hand, while maintaining the fun of this "return for refund" game. Each item retrieved is dumped into the bucket. The dog will leave harder ones for later, so over time make substitutions that make the items increasingly difficult for the dog. Finally place the toy box under your hand and when they return the toy, move your hand out of the way and praise your dog. Repeat while slowly removing your hand from the scenario all together. Use a cue like "Clean up" to start the game.

Tug

The secret to playing this game successfully is for you, the human, to control it. For this game, choose one particular toy that will be used as your tug rope. Don't use one of your socks or food items. Especially do not ever use a leash as a tug toy!

Pick one toy and stick with it.

You start the game by taking the toy out of it's safe spot and encouraging your dog to mouth it with a cue like "Tug" or "Get it." Some dogs will refuse to do this with you, especially if they've been punished for tugging in the past. If your dog is food motivated, try rubbing the toy with something tasty and smelly. However, tugging is instinctive for dogs (it's a cooperative act in pack feeding) so your dog should catch on quickly. Tug a few times, then tell your dog "drop it" or "release." Use a cheerful but clear tone. You can reward him for dropping it with either a treat or another round of tug. Occasionally let your pooch win by releasing the toy from your grip while saying "OK."

Make sure that you end the game if your dog gets too rough or agitated. Simply ask for "drop it", praise for it, and always put the toy away when you are done playing.

If the dog refuses to let go, you let go of your end and walk away. Remember, it takes two to tug! Wait until the energy has diminished a little and distract your dog with another toy so you can put the tug toy away.

Cups

Teach your dog "Get the Treat" first by placing them in "Stay" or "Wait," dropping a treat on the floor in front of them, then releasing them and saying "Get the Treat." Place your dog in a sit/stay and allow them to observe you placing the treat under the edge of a small plastic cup so that the treat is sticking out a little. Release them from their stay and tell them to "get the treat!" Do this 2-3 times, adding 2 other cups to the set-up before placing the treat completely under the cup. Once they have this down, increase the difficulty by mixing the cups around and increasing the dog's wait time before releasing. Add difficulty by teaching them to return the cups to you after they find the treat!

Fetch with Obedience

If your dog already retrieves the ball (or at least runs after it), have them sit and stay while you throw the ball. Attach a leash at first to make sure they stay when you ask them to. Then release them to "Fetch!" Reward the return of the ball with a chest scratch or a treat if needed. Build on the length of time that you ask them to stay slowly. This is an extremely good impulse control exercise for those dogs who just can't wait to go get that ball! Increase difficulty by adding down and tricks before releasing the dog to "Fetch!"

Other fun games to check out

Catch (with frisbee, ball, toys)
Racing (running to touch a target - dog must know "touch" on command)
Play & Freeze (incorporates games like Tug & Racing to build excitement, then challenges the dog to stop or "freeze" suddenly before play begins again)
Agility: formal or basic with hoop jumping, hurdles, and other props. You can even make your own props! (High impact and large jumps should only be done by dogs 12+ months of age.)
Tricks: If your dog loves to perform and has a knack for picking up the details, the possibilities are endless!

*If you have more than one dog, it is equally important to spend quality time alone with each dog. Don't hesitate to separate your dogs and play with one at a time, especially when playing a game or teaching them something new. Each of your lucky dogs will thank you for it.

For more in-depth rules and directions on teaching these games, check out books like 50 Games to Play with Your Dog and 101 Dog Tricks.

*Article from March 2009 Newsletter. If you would like to join our mailing list, just email: info@leapsNhounds.com with the subject: Add me!

The American Veterinary Medical Association or AVMA has released a revised statement on their stance regarding ear cropping and tail docking.

"The AVMA opposes ear cropping and tail docking of dogs when done solely for cosmetic purposes. The AVMA encourages the elimination of ear cropping and tail docking from breed standards."

Although a person may decide to undergo an optional surgery to, for example, decrease the size of their nose; the decision is ultimately that person's choice. Our dogs do not enjoy the luxury of choice when it comes to surgery, so it is up to us to determine necessary vs. frivolous surgeries and the pain that follows them. Where as neutering and spaying has defined behavioral and medical benefits (not to mention helping cut back the serious issue of overpopulation), cropping and ear docking do not benefit the dog in almost every case. 100% of my clients that have opted to do this surgery have told me that if they could, they would take it all back. The look just wasn't worth the suffering their dog had to experience.

It may not be your dog's choice, but it is safe to say that if it were, they would probably opt to keep the ends of their beautiful ears...and their coffee table-clearing tails too!